John's Diary - excerpts in country / date order

BOTSWANA

Levy Family Safari
Chobe National Park, Linyanti Wildlife Reserve, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Okavango Delta - Botswana, Victoria Falls - Zimbabwe
July 2007

Three generations of the Levy Family - 14 in all - joined me on safari in Botswana with a few nights at the end in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. It was an honour to accompany Peachy and Mark and their wonderful family. Dana wrote a great account of their safari for our regular email newsletter.


Anderson Safari
Northern Botswana followed by Luangwa and Lower Zambezi Zambia
July 2006

Northern Botswana. We had heard lions roaring in the night so headed off early after a quick coffee and toast. Tracks indicated that the pride had moved into the mopani area – large male and possibly one or two females. Ended up at Shumba Pan where I had the pleasure of bumping into Don Young from Nairobi. Had tea and biscuits in the warm sun with birds all around us - bird watching excellent. Drove back along the shoreline to camp in time for a great brunch. The afternoon was once again spent on the edge of the lagoon where at one point a line of elephant cows streamed out of the reed beds and later a couple of male elephant made their way towards us splashing through the water. Sundowners were enjoyed at the waters edge as we watched the golden sun disappear. Drove into the mopani area and I bleated my ‘impala distress call’ but with no results. Spotlighted on the way back to camp. Dinner after 8.


Gibbs / Todhunter Safari
Okavango Delta, Moremi National Park
October  2004

From Uganda I flew via South Africa straight into Botswana's Okavango Delta where I met old friends Michael and Caroline Todhunter, Roger Gibbs and Jane Lee. What fun to be with them again - some of my first guests when I started private guiding many years ago. Stayed at two of Botswana's premium permanent camps, Stanley's and Chiefs and enjoyed the usual excellent game viewing this amazing delta ecosystem offers.

Okavango Delta
Rose at 0430, and after a light breakfast we were out of camp by 0600 heading onto plains edged with woodland. Came across several fresh sets of rhino tracks. Watched a number of giraffe and antelope. Birds were excellent (Eastern white-backed pelican). Spent some time enjoying a cup of tea in nice shade overlooking a vast area which was scattered with animals including two separate prides of lion resting up - one pride was still lying in the same position we'd seen them in the previous afternoon! A Rock Monitor lay across a branch of an ebony tree nearby.  Back to camp for lunch and to rest over the hot midday period. 

GABON

Harare, Zimbabwe
October / November 2005

Not really a diary entry as such – I stayed at home while Nicci travelled to Gabon to accompany a group on a 10 day ‘expedition’ around this interesting central African country. Click here to read more about Nicci's adventure and get in touch with her if you’re at all interested in hearing more.  Nicci is putting together a couple of trips in 2006 and there will be spaces available.

KENYA

Cochran / Torrence Safari
Chyulu Hills including fly camping, camel safari Lewa Conservancy, Sarara, Masai Mara, Nairobi - Kenya
September / October 2007

Nicci joined us for the first few days, and then the last day (in between she went off to recce some new camps and lodges) of this safari with Karen and Kent Cochran and Joe and Ellen Torrence - new safari friends who we look forward very much to having back in Africa one day soon. Prior to spending time in Sarara way up in the Northern Frontier District we had spent four days on a camel safari on Lewa.

Sarara
We got up early and set off on foot for the upper reaches of the Sarara River which we followed. The river bed was dry and the sand soft making walking safe and clearly showing many animal tracks. We sat for a while on a huge tree limb which had been washed down by the flood water, watching as a male lesser kudu crossed the river not far from us and totally unaware of our presence. Met up with the vehicle and drove back to camp for breakfast. Later we returned to the 'Singing Wells' where a number of cows were being watered. Naked Samburu warriors clean out the wells, dug deep into the dry river bed, then collect the clean water in iron buckets and pour it into large wooden drinking troughs for their livestock. Whilst this is all happening the warriors sing hence 'singing wells'. Finally the animals had been watered and they all moved off out of the river bed back to the grazing areas. This happens every day then there is no ground water around. Back to camp for lunch, a rest and then in the afternoon we set out in the vehicle following an old, seldom used, track in the hope of coming across a leopard. No leopard but a surprise sun downer in the river bed before returning to camp, spotlighting, for dinner.


Kellner Family Safari
Chyulu Hills, Lewa Conservancy and Masai Mara - Kenya
August 2007

Peter and Maria Kellner are old safari friends who brought their grandchildren Zoe Zissu and Peter Hensley to Kenya for their first safari in Africa.

Masai Mara
Today we got up a little later - had breakfast then set off on a morning drive. We first found the two adult male lions, one was fast asleep in a thicket whilst the one we could easily observe was in a lying position with his head raised. We drove on to find a cheetah female who was preparing to hunt. At first she lurked into a shady patch beneath a wild olive quietly observing a group of Tommies which were out grazing. It didn't take her long to select a young of year not far off. She broke into a medium paced run heading towards her prey, keeping low and out of sight but it wasn't long before the constantly wary herd caught sight of her and sped off in all directions across the plains. The young gazelle desperately tried to out manoeuvre the rapidly approaching cheetah but the cats sheer speed and agility had her on top of the terrified animal in no time. She clung to her prey in a cloud of dust and as the dust settled we watched as she pulled her kill into the shade. Before starting to feed she lay for a while on her side catching her breath.
From here we drove to a high view point from where we looked down onto the rolling plains where thousands of animals grazed - amazing sight. Back to camp for lunch.


Wright and Brown Safari
Masai Mara - Kenya
August 2007

This was a first for me - fellow Zimbabweans on safari in Kenya. Jo and Lara Wright and Andy and Deidre Brown decided to take their children (5 in all) to Kenya to experience a very different kind of Africa and to witness the wildebeest migration. We stayed in a private tented camp in the middle of the Masai Mara and caught the migration perfectly.

Masai Mara
We rose at 0600 and had an early breakfast. Drove down to the main crossing area near Serena Lodge and enjoyed a picnic breakfast on the banks of the Mara River. We observed a fairly large herd of wildebeest and a number of zebra which were gathering on the near bank of the river. On the far bank there were only a few zebra so decided a crossing was not very likely. Headed back to camp and later in the afternoon we drove the plains hoping to find a pride of lions. No lions but we enjoyed watching the birds along a dry river bed. The evening light was quite spectacular.


American University in Cairo Group, (AUC)
Chyulu Hills and Masai Mara
11 – 19 February 2006

Nicci and I organised the safari for this group of 33 AUC Trustees and friends.  Due to the number of people the group split and while 16 flew into Ol Donyo Wuas in the Chyulu Hills for four days, the second group joined me in the Masai Mara.  The groups then switched.  I remained guiding from a private tented camp situated in the middle of the Mara.  I was joined by some great young Kenyan guides.  A good time was had by all and as usual the game viewing was amazing.

Masai Mara
Our final drive (of the safari) took us onto the high ground south of camp.  Looking across the undulating terrain all you could see  was a mosaic of animals spread out in every direction.  A pride of six female lions bounded ungainly towards a herd of Grants gazelles whilst the enormous black-maned male followed up behind just in case there was a kill. The flighty antelope crossed a small stream gaining distance from the obviously over-fed cats.  We drove on to the larger river which joins the Talek. A small herd of elephants was approaching from upstream and in front of them another pride of lions feasted on a freshly killed wildebeest.  The six cubs looked as though they were going to explode, one was covered in offal while the rest of them had very bloody heads from feeding inside the carcass. Elephants had moved into the riverbed and were busy browsing from a variety of lush herbs. In a muddy pool downstream lay an old buffalo male.  He was badly scared, many of the wounds still festering. We had fun identifying the huge variety of birds which were flying overhead and feeding on the wild figs. Another incredible morning in the Mara.

Back to camp for brunch.  Charter came in to collect us from Ol Kiombo at 1400 hrs.  On arrival Nairobi we drove to Janet’s House of Treasures, had dinner in Karen and then out to Jomo Kenyatta to see everyone off on their flights. 


Sue and Robert Clark Safari
Chyulu Hills, Laikipia Masai Land, Masai Mara, Lamu,
31 January – 10 February

Sue and Robert had asked me to put a safari together that would have them game viewing on foot as much as possible.  Over 11 days we enjoyed some amazing sights mostly on foot but on occasion from a vehicle too.  From Nairobi we flew to the Chyulu Hills for 3 days, Laikipia Maasai Land camel trekking for  5 and finally the  peripheries of the Masai Mara (where walking is permitted) for 3 days.  Sue and Robert then flew to Zanzibar for a relaxing time on the beach.

Laikipia Maasai Land 
We rose at the normal early hour and prepared to leave camp.  Continued on down river and then followed a game trail to the summit of a long ridge where we observed thirty zebra  The camel train caught up with us at this point.  Descended the escarpment following a winding game trail down to the Ngare River where we found a shady canopy of trees for our lunch break.  Wallowed in the cool flowing water before climbing the slopes again to observe the surrounding area.  After lunch we walked on towards a conical hill – saw a pair of fish eagles, elephant sign everywhere.  Eventually came across the herd and had to backtrack toward the river again.  Our camp came into view, camels hobbled under the trees. Enjoyed a cup of tea before continuing on for a few kms to visit a Maasai village.  Not at all commercialised, refreshing change.  We returned to camp walking by the light of the moon, Kitongo (our local guide) ‘wailing’ in the traditional way  to ward off any elephants on our path  – three young Maasai girls joined us, Kitongo explained for protection.  Back to camp at 2000 hrs.


Kenya Recce with Nicci
Masai Mara, Lewa, Laikipia, Lamu ;
16 September – 3 November 

Nicci joined me at the end of Sherrye Henry’s safari.  It was especially nice for Nicci to meet one of the many people she ‘talks’ to via email but rarely gets to meet.  

Nicci and her colleague/ground coordinator in Nairobi gave us a pretty tight schedule over two weeks with a brief time in the middle for some great R & R on the coast at Manda Bay off Lamu.   Great walking beaches and good fishing.  During our time in Kenya we visited the Off Beat Safaris riding camp, Richards, Rekero, Suruni, Ol Seki and Naibor camps all in the Masai Mara before travelling north to Lewa, Borana and Matamaiyu Mugie ranches and then even further north to Sarara Camp under the magnificent Mathews Range.  Lastly Ol Donyo Wuas with a night in their Hide.
 
Many of these places I know well having taken guests there over the years but this was the opportunity for Nicci to get to know them.


Henry Family Safari 
Laikipia, Samburu, Chyulu Hills, Masai Mara;
5 – 16 September 2005 

Sherrye, Sherrye Jr and Elizabeth Henry joined me for a wonderful 12 day safari which took us all over Kenya.  Sherrye had one or two things on her wish list – one to view Mt Kilimanjaro so what better place than Ol Donyo Wuas in the Chyulu Hills where Sherrye Jr was also able to enjoy her passion for running –  thrilling to be able to run over the expansive plains of Kenya.   Sadly Kili was shrouded in cloud most of the time.  Nicci joined us in the Masai Mara on the last day of the safari – in fact she had hardly stepped off the plane from Zimbabwe when she witnessed one of nature’s phenomena - a wildebeest river crossing.

Mugie
Early morning shower of rain.  Walked with the camels ending up at the breakfast site on a rocky promontory.  Herd of elephants and giraffe walked past us.  Afternoon visit to a Pokot village then a game drive in the sanctuary (Matamaiyu Mugie) with Claus Mortensen the ranch manager.  Saw a large herd of buffalo but no rhino.

Chyulu Hills
Walked in the morning from the lodge (Ol Donyo Wuas) – pleasant walk in the open woodland then through the thicker vegetation which grows on the lava flow. Birdlife excellent.  Had breakfast back at the lodge before meeting the Boskovic charter plane (Cessna 206) at the airfield.  Flew to Ol Kiombo airfield in the Masai Mara. Our guide met us and we set off for camp which was situated on the Talek River.  The team had driven through heavy rain and been stuck for 4 hours as they got into the Mara.  Nice to see them again.  Afternoon game drive – thousands of wildebeest everywhere - lioness observed stalking a herd.


Dirk and Claire van Doren
Masai Mara
27 –  31 August 2005

Being a busy working couple Dirk and Claire, who have been on safari with us before, snatch short times to follow their passion for travel and Africa is usually on their list every year.  Time on safari is short but sweet.  After four days camping in the Masai Mara they flew to Zanzibar for 3 days of sun, sea and relaxation before returning to New York.

Masai Mara
A clear morning with heavy dew on the grass. Very cool as we drove out before sunrise.  Having heard lions roar nearby in the early hours of the morning we headed out towards ‘Log Tree’ viewpoint in order to look for them. Found a magnificent black-maned lion courting a female. Filmed them for a while then set off for the Talek area travelling along the river before crossing to move along a riverine belt where many zebra were gathering at a salt lick. Then the wildebeest procession began – thousands of them heading in a southerly direction. They would appear over a hill top and in single files gain momentum as they ran down towards us. Columns would join up close to us and continue en masse! What a sight. At one stage two warthogs joined the procession. We had seen a number of wildebeest carcasses, probably a few days old, so lions were about. Back to camp for lunch and rested for an hour.  An evening drive took us to a big male eland which had been killed in the morning by a pride of 12 lions.  Onto a herd of buffalo and then to a sunset spot overlooking the river on which we were camped. No sign of rain, cool evening - the area beginning to dry up.


Lawrence Family Safari
Samburu, Laikipia, Masai Mara
17 – 26 August 2005

Another great family joined me on safari in Kenya – Peter, Annie, Lizzie, Helen and William – Australians all the way from the Philippines.  Ten days flew by as they always do, too fast, but particularly when there are children in the group. They liked to be on the go the whole time - their enthusiasm  infectious.

Masai Mara
We went on to find another cheetah female who was also surveying the surrounding countryside but this one was perched on top of a termite mound.  She caught sight of a black backed jackal a few hundred metres away – descended the mound and gave chase!  The jackal circled towards us passing less than a hundred metres away. The cheetah was simply driving an intruder out of her territory! Continued on towards the Mara River.  Stopped to view hippo, still heaps of wildebeest and zebra carcasses with already overfed crocs lying nearby.  Good sightings of wildebeest and another cheetah.  Stopped to have a sandwich beneath a Balanites (torch wood)  tree. Wildebeest moving by in a large group – no crossing.  Afternoon drove into the communal area – very lush riverine trees and a good variety of birds.  Saw Tristan (Voorspuy/Off Beat Horse Safaris) riding with his guests – invited Nicci and I to come and stay at their home, Deloraine.  Stopped to watch three elephant bulls on the way home.  Day hot and pleasant with lightening and thunder in the distance.  Sadly the last day of the Lawrence family’s safari.


Wesp / Bathurst Safari 
Samburu, Laikipia, Masai Mara, Serengeti, Ngorongoro
February 2005

From the Chyulus I returned to Nairobi to meet Anne and Bill Wesp who have joined me on safari before, and who this time brought friends Romney and Bill Bathurst. I found an avid birder in Romney and have subsequently been sent her safari checklist. We managed to spot 236 bird species in Kenya and 151 in Tanzania which is a very respectable count. Our safari over three weeks, took us through Samburu, Laikipia Plateau, Masai Mara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.

Flying from Laikipia Plateau to Masai Mara
Rose at 0600 hrs, had breakfast and flew out of Matamaiyu Mugie for the Masai Mara at 0900 hrs.  Having crossed the Laikipia Plateau, with excellent views of Mt Kenya, we followed the course of the Rift Valley passing Lake Baringo, flew over Lake Nakuru where we saw huge flocks of flamingo, then over the Mau forest and into the Mara itself. Tim and Caroline were there to meet us. We drove to our tented camp, stopping to fix a broken fan belt en route and to observe a large number of lions which had been feeding off  a giraffe. 

The camp situated on the edge of a forest overlooking a small river - tributary to the Talek. Late in the afternoon we returned to the lions - feeding in full progress by all. One female had an injured left elbow. Day very hot but cool in the evening.


Ol Donyo Wuas, Chyulu Hills, Kenya
January 2005

Between two safaris I spent a week with good friend Richard Bonham at his home in the Chyulu Hills. Richard and  wife Tara  own Ol Donyo Wuas, a wonderful lodge set on the slopes of the Chyulu Hills with views of Kilimanjaro in the distance and  exclusive access  to over 300,000 acres of Maasai Group Ranch. They work closely with the Maasai community setting up projects like the Maasailand Preservation Trust - covering environmental education, primary and secondary and university education as well as reforestation projects in arid areas. Good to catch up with these great people again as well as old safari friends Bruce and Carolyn Ludwig who were in residence at the time.


Haljun Group Safari
Samburu, Laikipia, Nakuru, Masai Mara, Ngorongoro Crater
August/September 2004

Old safari friends Bill and Barbara Haljan and Jack Lane along with Phyllis Holtman and Hank and Nell Cox joined me for this 15 day safari in Kenya. I then returned home leaving the group to enjoy three days of spoiling at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge in Tanzania. Our safari together took us through Samburu, the Laikipia Plateau, Nakuru and finally the Masai Mara using a mixture of permanent and tented camps along the way. Fantastic game viewing everywhere.

Samburu
Rose at 0545 hrs, tea and rusks in the mess and drove out of camp. Crossed the main river into the Buffalo Springs National Reserve. Sighted a Palm-nut vulture and an immature Martial Eagle. Came across lion tracks on the road. Tracked for a while but the sign disappeared. After viewing many elephants crossing the river we heard baboons giving of their alarm calls. Drove in their direction and found a lone lioness standing on a lateral branch, baboons scattered throughout the upper branches of the same tree chattering nervously.

TANZANIA

Giniat Family Safari
Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, Serengeti, Mahale National Park - Tanzania
July 2007

Edward, Margaret and their son Mathew joined me in Tanzania for a wonderful safari which included time in Ngorongoro Crater, the Western Corridor of the Serengeti, amazing concentrations of wildebeest, and Mahale Mountains where we had great viewing of chimpanzees.

Ngorongoro Crater
Met our driver at 7 pm last night to arrange for today's activities. The whole crater area is shrouded in mist and throughout the night we felt numerous earth tremors - all quite airy. One tremor shook my bed enough to wake me up ! After breakfast we finally departed the Lodge at 0930 hrs. Progress to the Crater entrance gate was very slow as mist still enveloped the whole area so we had to pick our way down the road following the tail lights of the car ahead of us. Visibility on the crater floor was fortunately clear. Drove past five lionesses who had just finished feeding off a wildebeest. Lots of other vehicles watching as well. Many animals including another pride of eleven lions (three large males and two approximately 2 month old cubs); four spotted hyenas; baboons; jackal; warthog; cheetah; hartebeest; hippo buffalo and some ostriches. As it was still very cold the black rhino were not located which was a pity.

Coming out of the crater about midday we made our way down to the Manyara Airfield where a Cessna Caravan meet us for the scenic flight / charter over to the western corridor of the Serengeti. Magnificent flying over the Crater and Oldoinyo Lengai and then down over the endless plains of Serengeti. On arrival we were met by our safari car and driver for the transfer into camp. Passed through enormous herds of wildebeest. Had a rare sighting of a Patas monkey (Erythrocebus Patas). Our camp was situated amongst a grove of small flat topped acacia trees with a view out over the distant plains. Weather very cool and comfortable.


Acland / Harries Safari 
Serengeti & Ngorongoro
23 – 30 January 2006

Our good friend Charles Acland is a relatively new convert to Africa having done his first safari on his retirement in 2004.  It was a great pleasure to have him and two of his, friends Sandy and Anne Harries, join me in Tanzania.  Northern Tanzania has experienced another season with little rain so we were lucky to find pockets of wildebeest who had made the journey south to the short grass plains.  As usual, and in spite of the dryness, game viewing was excellent. 

Ngorongoro Crater
Rose at 0530 to prepare for the drive into the Crater.  Left  the lodge at 0600 arriving at the entrance gate at 0630 hrs. We were the second vehicle into the crater. The lake was very low but surrounding pools were plentiful. The main river to the north was completely dry.  Excellent game viewing including a pair of lions mating, whilst the brother looked on.  Six rhino – one pair presented themselves fairly close by.  Spotted  a cheetah and her very small 3 week old cub.  Still unsteady on its feet it appeared that the young mother was moving it from their previous den in a culvert, to a new den site. Many elephant bulls and a variety of plains game.  We had our picnic brunch at 1030 hrs prior to the vehicle invasion at Ngoitokitok.  In all we drove for twelve hours.  A hot day, well enjoyed.  Dinner and got to bed at 2200.


Werbe Family Safari
Serengeti
January 2005

While in New Zealand over Christmas I had a request to guide the Werbe family on safari in the Serengeti mid January. In fact I'd only been home a few days before the holiday clothes were replaced by my safari gear and off I happily went to the bush again.

Rose at 0530 hrs , breakfast out in the bush today. First sighting this morning was a lone cheetah female which was sitting in the big marsh. Three lions walked into the marsh and appeared to be searching for cheetah cubs. Later they climbed onto the ridge to rest up. Three adult cheetah males came down to the marsh presumably to look at the female. We followed these three onto the plains hoping that they might hunt. Whilst crossing a vast open area, we observed a Thomson's gazelle giving birth. Birthing process took over an hour before the calf could fully stand. Wildebeest were widespread over the plains but no calves being born yet.


Thiele Safari
Masai Mara, Laikipia, Ngorongoro
October 2004

Towards the end of October I was joined in Kenya by a group from Germany, Spain and South Africa. This thirteen day safari began with two nights in Tanzania at the Ngorongoro Crater before moving north into Kenya's wonderful Masai Mara for 8 days. After four days in the south of the Mara, and while the luxury tented camp (one of Africa's top-end luxury mobile  tented units), moved from the south to the north, we flew into northern Kenya to spend two nights at Matamaiyu Mugie Lodge on the Laikipia Plateau.

Ngorongoro Crater 
Arrived at the Ngorongoro Crater entry gate at 0635  -  third vehicle down this morning. Weather on the rim partially cloudy but visibility was excellent in the crater. We came across a  magnificent tusker in the Lerai Forest. Further on, a pride of fifteen lions had recently killed a wildebeest adult. Three cubs aged about 3 months were with the pride. No mature male around. At the kill site, ten plus golden jackals competed with a lone hyena for scraps - lungs etc! Jackals amazing - chased the hyena and one managed to get a hyena to drop a piece of meat. Breakfast at Ngoitokitok. Met Gibson (Crater warden) who came with us to see a rhino. Later came across two cheetah males sitting high up on a ridge overlooking the plains. An excellent serval sighting. Arrived at the hippos' mud wallow and enjoyed time  watching them and the flamingos feeding at the edge of the lake nearby. Saw a large herd of wildebeest coming down to Lake Magadi to drink before we headed for the picnic site for lunch. Climbed out of the crater at around 1700 hrs after an excellent day's game viewing.

UGANDA

Wickersham Group Safari
Kibale, Queen Elizabeth, Bwindi
September/October 2004

Jean Wickersham, Donald Kearns, Tom and Cindy Cabe and Judy Peters met me in Entebbe and together we began our safari together, a combination of lodges and mobile tented, through Kibale, Queen Elizabeth and Ishasha finishing with two days tracking gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Magnificent scenery through this arm of the Rift Valley. Incredible bird sightings as well  including the shoebill, Wonderful sightings of grey-cheeked mangabeys, black & white colobus, and red tailed monkeys not too mention the famous tree climbing lions of Ishasha. 

Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park
Relaxed in camp until 1600 hrs when we drove out to search for the tree climbing lions. Drove through magnificent open grassland dotted with islands of acacia and fig trees (Ficus Sycamorus). We found two very pregnant lionesses draped over very large trunks in the canopy of a wild fig. A third lioness later appeared through the long grass and climbed into a nearby tree. A clever escape from the heat.  We enjoyed a spectacular sunset sipping chilled wine from silver goblets!

ZAMBIA 

Crosby and Friends Safari
Kasanka National Park, Bangweulu Swamps, Shiwa N'gandu “The Africa House', North & South Luangwa National Parks - Zambia
September/October 2007

Old safari friends Tom and Ellie Crosby brought their friends to join me in Zambia - but no ordinary itinerary for this group as they wished to be right off the beaten track. I found myself in some wonderfully interesting new areas in the north of the country. I have written about finding a pair of shoebills in Bangweulu and the spectacle of the bats in Kasanka in a recent newsletter Link to Newsletter Edition 15 Shoebills in Bangweulu & Bats in Kasanka . The following incident happened on the second last day of their safari in South Luangwa. I'd had great viewing of lions all over Africa during 2007 but we hadn't managed to see lions on the safari until the following is worth recounting as it was quite exceptional !

Luangwa Valley
This morning we set out as usual before the sun rose determined to find some lions. We had heard that a courting pair had been seen down river the previous afternoon. We followed the Luangwa river driving along the high banks for a considerable distance before we observed the back end of a large male lion as it climbed up and out over the opposite bank of the river to join his female. The dilemma was how to cross the flowing river. At this point a vehicle appeared out of the scrub on the opposite bank, positioning itself close to the lions. It had obviously found a crossing point downstream which we needed to find. Retracing our tracks it wasn't long before ' hawk eyed' Dave spotted the same vehicle making its way out of the river on our side - from this point it was just a matter of following these tracks into the river and wading through the couple of hundred metres of knee deep water - quite exciting. We were rewarded by a wonderful viewing of the lions mating. Our return journey to camp for lunch was interrupted by frequent sightings of a variety of antelope and birds.
Whilst enjoying our evening sundowners on the banks of the Luangwa later in the day we had amazing viewing of 60 - 70 elephants splashing in the river beneath us.


Cottafavi / Kuntz Safari
Victoria Falls, Luangwa, Lower Zambezi, Zambia
August 2006

Lower Zambezi
We rose at the normal time, enjoyed a light breakfast before setting off by boat to fish on the river. The light was perfect as we tied up against a bank upstream from camp. Caught a few small Tiger fish and a number of Nkupe. We then drifted in the main current passing several pods of hippo and crocodiles. A herd of elephant swam across the channel to reach a densely reeded island. The day was warming up when we decided to head back to camp where lunch was waiting – a champagne lunch aboard a shaded pontoon floating on the Zambezi! After lunch we boarded the boat again, this time downstream to our next camp. This is a breathtaking trip with incredible scenery whichever way one turns.

An hour later we beached in front of Old Mondoro. Met by Helen and Rololf who settled us into camp. Rested for a while then departed in the Land Cruiser heading out into the woodlands. Took a short walk to the edge of the Chakwanga River. A large male elephant sauntered by on the river bed beneath us his head held high as he was a little unsure of the situation (us). Drove onto the open flats to enjoy a sun downer while listening for the alarm call of impala or baboon which would indicate predators in the vicinity – nothing. Our night drive back camp produced few results until we received information from Levy that he had come across three leopards and four lions. Needless to say we rushed over to join his group to find this incredible scene. Twenty feet above the ground on the limb of a Winter Thorn lay two adult leopards, a male and a female. Sixty metres behind us was another leopard sitting in a low fork of another Winter Thorn. Four adult lions (1 adult male, 2 sub adult male and 1 adult female) were also close by. One of the sub adult males was obviously a threat to the two leopards who had taken refuge in the tree. The adult male leopard was becoming frustrated by this and was growling angrily. I took a number of photographs of this amazing scene (1600 iso with flash button activated). After an hour we returned to camp.


Joann Gschwendtner
Livingstone, Luangwa Valley, Lower Zambezi, Kafue
June 2006

Luangwa Valley
Heard lions roaring in the night also hyaena and a leopard coughing. Rose at 5.30 am, light breakfast before heading out of camp with Mischek and Bottle. Crossed the Manzi River – the dawn winds were cool and the sun had just risen. Birds singing away, a Bateleur wheeled above – wonderful scenery all around us. Got out of the vehicle and walked to a channel which still had a fair amount of water in it. A pair of Egyptian Geese were very noisy as they honked away. Puku and Impala dotted an open area and a troop of baboons barked nervously close by. We enjoyed our ‘portered’ morning tea at the junction of the Manzi and Luangwa Rivers. As we tucked into a homemade muffin or two an elephant bull stepped out of a thicket on the opposite side. Everything was perfect. On our way back to camp we stopped to watch a young elephant male feeding from selected herbs, eventually arriving at camp just in time for lunch.

Rested up over midday, tea at 3.30, then left in the vehicle following the main river southwards. Stopped at a very scenic river mouth to watch the sun set behind us. Short green couch grass gave the surrounding area a mown lawn appearance. Double banded sand grouse were flying in large numbers to drink from the rivers edge. A Vervet Monkey sounded an alarm call on the opposite side of the river. The Chendeni Hills in the distance enhanced the surrounding beauty. Night drive back to camp, windy but surprisingly warm. Dinner at 9 pm.


Harsh Family
Zambezi River, Livingstone
June 2006

Zambezi River
Rose at 5 am, had a light breakfast then drove to Thorntree Lodge as we were booked to ride elephants from here this morning. Met Gerald who gave us a briefing, then everyone climbed onto their elephants for a very enjoyable ride lasting about an hour before returning to camp for breakfast. Drove to Chief Makuni’s Village where a local guide showed us around. Shopped at the craft centre then drove to our picnic site – a little backwater on the rivers edge not far from the Falls themselves. Day clear, spray rising to the south east. A very pleasant spot shaded by magnificent shade trees and green grass underfoot. Delicious lunch of cold meats, cheese and salad prepared by Mark. Vultures flew overhead and a female croc basked in the sun not far away. Told stories for a while! Spent some time at the Royal Livingstone Hotel before setting off back to our camp as the sun was getting low in the sky. The Mugongo Trees along the side of the road were beautifully silhouetted as the sky reddened. Back at camp our dinner was served in great style amidst candlelight while a well developed moon hovered over the Zambezi River. The night was becoming rapidly cooler so after dinner we enjoyed being huddled into the warmth of a roaring log fire. Lying in my camp cot I could hear the sounds of impala rutting in the distance, at times interrupted by the shrill wails of a Black backed Jackal.


Hertz/Fitch Family Safari
Luangwa Valley
10-21 June 2004

This ten day safari began in South Luangwa walking over a 6 day period between three small bush camps before flying up to the more wild and remote North Luangwa to spend four days at Rod and Guz Tether’s wonderful bush camp. Guz must be one of the best, if not the best, safari cook in Africa.

Chindeni Bush Camp
Rose at 0515, sat at the dining area and watched the sun rise and a lone African Hunting Dog rolling in the dust. Had a light breakfast before leaving camp for a drive/walk. We came across a kill next to one of the flood plane rivers – young puku. Circled ahead with the vehicle to try and locate the pack. Walked through the riverine towards a flock of vultures which were descending rapidly. Walked to a spot to where we located a few freshly chewed bones – found fresh  dog tracks but they had moved off.  Saw a number of small groups of elephants, large buffalo herd in the distance, puku, impala, warthog, Thornicrofts giraffe. Had tea on the banks of the Luangwa River.

ZIMBABWE

Jana and Itay Honeymoon Safari
Victoria Falls, Mana Pools, Matusadona and Hwange National Parks - Zimbabwe
Honeymoon Safari September 2007

Itay and Jana Tuchman, presently living in London, joined me in my home country of Zimbabwe for their two week honeymoon safari in three prime wildlife areas.

Hwange National Park
Drove towards Ngweshla where we located a set of adult male lion tracks heading southwards along he road. We checked the main pan area for any sign of the lion, nothing, so we decided to go back to the tracks we'd found earlier and follow these two cats. After about an hour we caught up with one of the lion resting in the shade. Nearby circling vultures lead us to the lions kill, a 3 year old elephant, where the second lion was still feeding. We managed to approach within fifty metres before he spotted us. The day was beginning to warm up as we made our way back to the vehicle and the drive back to camp. No sign of the buffalo and sable herds probably due to water being very short. We did have numerous sightings of the small Steenbok antelope and found a number of kudu close to the camp when we returned for brunch. Always lots of eles round the camp, there for the water pumped into small pan just in front of the mess tent. There is no other water around so pumps can hardly cope with the demand.

Late afternoon, after a wonderful camp tea, we went back to the spot we'd seen the lions in the morning only to find they'd moved off leaving the carcass to the vultures. Spotlighted back to camp.


Lawrence Family Safari
Victoria Falls, Mana Pools National Park, Hwange National Park - Zimbabwe
July / August 2007

Peter and Annie Lawrence first came on safari with me in Kenya in 2005 with their children Lizzie, Helen and William. We had great fun and so I was thrilled when they planned a second safari in Zimbabwe.

Mana Pools
After cereal and toast we drove along the main Vundu road towards Zebra Vlei. We located lion tracks on the road at Sausage Tree corner and quickly found the carcass remains just off the road. Obviously the pride had killed two adult zebras during the night. Whilst looking around for more tracks Nick Murray drove down the road with three of his guests. We decided to combine as one tracking team in our efforts to find the pride but after three hours we were still unsuccessful. I decided to leave the group by the road and walk out towards the river but still no luck. The National Parks tracking team complete with tracking antennae stopped to talk to us as they drove by so were able to tell us where they'd just seen the pride. Back we went down the road, walked in towards the river and found the lions resting in the shade. We were able to approach to within fifty metres. Continuing towards Chessa where our overnight camp had been moved we had lunch and a rest. All round us were animals either drinking at the nearby water hole or on the island in front of the camp grazing on the lush green grass. Later drove back to park HQ and played soccer with some of the staff whilst a large elephant bull looked on !


Burgess/Primrose/Kennedy Safari
Matusadona and Mana Pools
August 2006

Mana Pools
This morning was crisp and clear as we sat at the mess tent enjoying that first early morning cup of tea. Watched the red globe sun creep up over the horizon casting it’s long fingers of light across the glassy waters of the river (Zambezi). Listened to the haunting cry of a fish eagle echo across the valley, the usual amazing dawn chorus.

Drove westwards passing through a variety of habitats – the “Cathedral” stands of Mopani with their pale green foliage and a number of other shrubs beginning to blossom were beautiful in the soft early morning light. As we drove we read ‘the early morning newspaper’ (tracks on the sand) to discover what animals had passed along here during the night. A pair of hyenas had been walking side by side and we followed their tracks for a distance before they veered off to follow a well trodden game trail. Left the vehicle beneath the canopy of a large Tamarind Tree, then walked in single file onto the flood plain. Occasionally we sat for a while on a termite mound or fallen tree trunk to listen for an alarm call which might have helped us locate an elusive predator. Meandered across the floodplain through endless herds of impala, waterbuck and baboons; stalked a group of male buffaloes and watched a lone male elephant sway from side to side before launching himself onto his hind legs in order to reach a tasty morsel high in the tree. Our route had led us back to the Zambezi to a spot overlooking the river, where much to the surprise of my guests, a picnic brunch had been prepared and was waiting for our arrival – bacon, sausage, tomato, eggs and toast and tea all cooked on a mopani fire.

Drove back to camp for the midday period before we took to the river in three Canadian style canoes. The current was fairly swift and with a gentle breeze behind us we make good progress hugging the southern shoreline. Here enormous fig trees lean precariously over the water and Jackal Berries entwined in clusters of figs reach up to the dark blue sky. Paddled through a narrow channel where the birdlife was prolific and a female crocodile thrashed it’s way through the shallows in front of us into the safety of the deeper water. As the sun set over the rugged escarpment hills across in Zambia we reached the sand bank in front of camp, beaching our canoes in time to enjoy a sun downer watching the final changing colours of the sky.


Dritley & Bailey Families
Mana Pools
July 2006

Mana Pools
Impala had been disturbed in the night. We drove along the Rukomechi Road and walked into a large Y shaped pan GPS 128. Found the Dog Den GPS 127. Four dogs were lying at the entrance (several holes). The remaining members of the pack were still out hunting – possibly unsuccessful as it was late for them to still be away from the den. Walked back to the pan which was being used by elephant, buffalo, warthog, impala and zebra and then to the vehicle stopping again to watch a cow herd of elephant - one tuskless. Back to camp for lunch and a rest until 3 pm. Had tea and buns then drove again along the Rukomechi Road to our drop off point. Walked down to the rivers edge (Zambezi) – large number of impala around, a few waterbuck, warthog and elephants. Had a wonderful view of the surrounding area from an elevated position at the edge of a gulley. Eventually arrived back at camp having avoided a cow herd of elephant. Showers, drinks around the camp fire and dinner fairly early as lots of hungry children.


Family
Victoria Falls
25 – 28 February 2006

To celebrate Sarah’s 23rd birthday and as it was  Jessie’s half term Nicci and I took the girls to Victoria Falls for a long weekend. We enjoyed four wonderful days packing in as much as we could and returning home more exhausted than we’d left. Victoria Falls is a great place for an adrenalin fix!  We did a day’s white water rafting and as the picture depicts we had a spectacular flip – that’s me top right last out, the girls a tangle of legs and paddles at the bottom – great fun. The girls and friends also did the gorge swing, flying fox and zip line but there wasn’t time for a bungi jump or any white water kayaking. Not everyone’s cup of tea but definitely the place for extreme sports. The Falls themselves still a sight to behold, even as they are now with so much water pumping over the edge that you can hardly see them for spray. High tea  sitting on the terrace of the gracious Victoria Falls Hotel, overlooking the Falls is not to be missed either. 


Avery and David Keller
Mana Pools
9 – 13 August 2005

This was the end of Avery and David’s six week honeymoon safari in Africa – especially planned by their safari consultant that they would join me in Mana Pools in order to do as much bush walking as possible.  Mana is unquestionably  one of the best parks in Africa in which to game view on foot, the mighty Zambezi River never far off.  In fact our tented camp site, the same as the Trains, was situated on the banks of this beautiful river.  Often we didn’t even need move from camp as there was  game around us constantly.  This definitely ‘the wild dog’ safari.

Left camp early driving to the Rukomechi flood plain.  Picked up dog tracks on the road a kilometre west of the previous day’s sighting – then found the dogs not far on lying on the road !  Spent more than two hours with the pack returning to them in the afternoon until they set off on their daily hunt. Watched the build up to the hunt.  Pups now ten weeks old remained at the den site which I found located just off the road.  When we drove off again the pups started to follow us for a while.

Next day - drove back to the dog’s area.  Witnessed a warthog being killed by 4 adult male dogs at the den site.  Walked onto the flood plain stalking a herd of buffalo which were on their way down to the river to drink.  Afternoon walk following the river bank – walked between a herd of 150+ buffalo and a number of elephant cows.  Wonderful walk.  Late afternoon David fished amongst the hyacinth trying out his fly tackle on bream.


Train Family Safari 
Hwange, Mana Pools and Victoria Falls
27 July – 9 August, 2005

Safaris are not for the faint of heart and the Train family left the US just as South African Airways went on strike. After a stressful journey, during which they weren’t too sure which plane would fly them where and when, they arrived in Victoria Falls, having lost only 1 day of safari time.  This was Russell and Aileen Train’s sixth safari with me – a great privilege to have them back, with their son Bowdoin, his three children and another granddaughter.  We enjoyed thirteen days together on safari in Hwange and Mana Pools.

Hwange
Woke everyone at 0600 hrs.  Drove to Ngweshla and Kennedy No. 2 pans (Hwange National Park) looking for lion as I’d noticed lots of sign of activity there the previous day.  Good sightings of giraffes, wildebeest, buffalo, sable (1 excellent male), roan antelope (6), kudu, impala, waterbuck, and many elephant as usual.  Spent an amazing afternoon on the log pile hide watching numerous herds of elephant and buffalo.  Sighted a large male leopard as he confronted the tail end of a herd of buffalo.  The same animal ended up watering at the camp swimming pool (too many animals around the pan).  Got to bed at 2100.  Buffalo bellowing through the night down at the waterhole (old bulls clashing).


Wildlife Society of Zimbabwe
Mana Pools Game Count
25 - 26 September 2004

Every year the Wildlife Society of Zimbabwe calls on its enthusiastic members to help with a 24 hour (Saturday midday to Sunday midday) game count in Mana Pools National Park. I am usually not around to do this but was glad to be able to help this year. My partner and I were positioned at Mashayeni Spring situated just outside the National Park in the controlled hunting area on the edge of the Zambezi Escarpment.

As we sat quietly by the spring there was sporadic movement of game throughout the afternoon, mainly herds of impala, warthog and a few small groups of kudu. Elephants began to move in from 1630 hrs  when it began to cool down. All through the night there were frequent passings by elephant herds numbering up to twenty. It appeared they were drinking at the spring before proceeding further up to the main escarpment spring located on a main game transit route. Hot! A greysbok appeared to drink in the very early hours of the morning. At daybreak a large herd of impala, hundred plus, moved in to drink with kudu and warthog.


Family and Friends
Mana Pools
15-22 August 2004

A fantastic week spent in one of my favourite corners of Africa. Joining me was friend and fellow Zimbabwean Hugo Fircks and his family. Hugo’s mission during our few days together was to add to his library photographs of elephants. These he uses to create the most wonderful photo art canvases. We had some wonderful walks on the Mana flood plains amongst the many elephant herds which are now making their way nearer the river in search of food and water. 

To look at some of Hugo’s work visit his website www.hugofirx.com 


Herscovitz/Attala Family, Bush Survival Course
Matusadona Lakeshore
July/August 2004 

At the beginning of the Zimbabwe August school holidays I took 5 kids and 3 of their parents on a basic ‘bush survival’ walking and camping along the Matusadona Lakeshore. No diary excerpts (no time) but I have been encouraged by my daughters to add the following description written by the group. I hope you find it as amusing as they do!

Crowned Trapper, Stevenus Johnus
Trapper John. Rare and endangered. Occurs mainly in Matusadona, Kariba and Mana areas and is found as far North as Tanzania and Kenya. Feeds on sardines, condensed milk, nuts, honeyed tea and rusks. Settles comfortably in rhino spoor. Has both diurnal and nocturnal habits. His call is generally an incessant chatter which becomes excited in familiar surroundings. Bleats infrequently mimicking to attract attention. In the breeding season he produces beautiful young chicks. His mating colors are unknown but normally has khaki plumage. Near water he is known to expose white underpants.
With kind thanks to Veronique Attala