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Elephants and buffalo on the beach, tracking mandrills, the sound of the Great Blue Turaco in the forest canopy, deafening cicadas, flocks of Rosy Bee Eaters, the screech of chimps echoing through the trees, swarms of butterflies and bees, humidity, stale bread for breakfast, French cuisine for lunch, the frustration of communicating with the only help being a pocket French dictionary, the excitement of a tropical storm, train, land rovers and planes – there was so much to this expedition which kept our senses heightened at every turn.
At the end of October 2005 I travelled to Gabon to meet 5 strangers and 2 old safari friends and together begin a most memorable expedition through part of a most exceptional country. The strangers quickly became friends and a nicer group I could not have chosen to travel with.
Here we all were in a French speaking country with only a smattering of school French between us about to set off into the relative unknown. Luckily one of our group, Sue Chin, had good connections with the Wildlife Conservation Society, WCS, from whom Gabon’s environmental advice is predominantly provided. The contact with WCS researchers along the way was invaluable, as my aim was to really learn about Gabon, returning with local knowledge to help our clients put together the best possible trip. What a great help they were.
For 15 days we travelled by local train (once at 3 in the morning), squashed into the back of land cruisers, and even on one leg in a 2 pilot private charter – transport modes vary and standards are generally haphazard to say the least ! I learnt the absolute need to brief future travellers exceptionally well, that Gabon is for the traveller not the tourist,, that standards of accommodation and food are somewhat haphazard, and that to travel in Gabon it is vital one comes prepared to negotiate expectations along the way, well armed with a sense of humour and plenty of enthusiasm.
From the capital Libreville (serviced almost daily by Air France from Paris) we travelled to Lope, Ivindo (Langoue Bai) and Loango National Parks – time restrictions allowed us to visit only 3 of the 13 parks so-designated by President Bongo following Mike Fays’ famous mega transect across the country in 2001. But this was enough for a first visit. My favourite, and I think the group would concur, was Langoue Bai. A hard walk from the end of the road into camp heightens the remoteness of this magical spot hidden in the middle of the forest – a 1 km x 500 metre clearing through which runs a mineral rich creek attracting forest buffalo, elephant, sitatunga, gorillas, butterflies and birds. We could so easily have spent longer here quietly sitting in a hide tucked into the edge of the forest guarding this lush feeding ground – as one visitor wrote in the camp book “ for those who want to be part of nature and experience the wild – Langoue Bai, that taste of Eden some of us humans seek” is a perfect response.
So yes I would recommend you visit this forested, central African country just as soon as you can. As one of my travelling companions wrote :
“If you are into indulging a passive, arm-chair sort of curiosity, do not go to Gabon! Instead, read the brochures and choose a tour that keeps you comfortable and from getting too close to the edge … too close to the edge of survival, too close to the edge of greed, too close to the edge of innocence, too close to the edge of life itself.
Life in Gabon encompasses a sense of “being” that is inhaled along with the humidity, the heat and the frequent salt-seeking insects. At first, time weighs heavily on your hands … but slowly it enfolds you in an all-pervasive, organic sense of its presence and sweeps you amidst forests full of watching, sentient species; through villages full of watchful eyes and whispered stories; along rivers and roadways full of dust, mud and the tale of passages; and through the unknowing ages of our species’ presence in this ancient forest.
Gabon gives you pause … it is not spoiled by too many expectations, by too many yearnings for things to be too much more than they are. It will not always be thus. But it is right now, and it’s worth taking the moment to explore its land, its people … and, ultimately, yourself.”
Click here to view a sample Gabon itinerary
Gap Year Student Volunteer
Programme in Zimbabwe
A student volunteer programme has been launched in Zimbabwe aimed at gap year students. Based on a game ranch 200 kms from Harare, owned by friends of John and Nicci Stevens, volunteers will assist with a variety of tasks from mending fences, cleaning animal pens, feeding and training animals (rhino and elephant), game monitoring and research work etc. Contact Riley Travers on imiregp@zol.co.zw
The opportunity to take part in a four day back packing trail with John Stevens is available after the programme.
Both are incredible opportunities for a youngster.
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Book now for 2007
– if you are planning to safari in Africa during 2008 get in touch with us soon.
Our impeccable safari service provides options for privately guided safaris with John, or one of his select and experienced colleagues. Alternatively you can travel independently. John and his wife Nicci will draw on their vast knowledge of Africa’s best wildlife destinations to create a bespoke safari perfectly suited to your individual needs. Over twenty years of experience and contacts ensure that your safari, although not privately guided, runs smoothly using hosts and resident camp guides of the highest caliber.
 Singles and Couples
If you would like to do a safari with us but are not in a position to put a group together send your name and contact details to Nicci at info@johnstevenssafaris.com. John is planning to put a set departure date safari for 2007, destination and timing as yet undecided.
 Zambia Itinerary
John is working on a very exciting safari ‘expedition’ itinerary into Zambia’s less known remote northern areas, including Kasanka and Bangwuelu Swamps, (the Africa House) and north Luangwa, then down to the Zambezi River. Contact us at info@johnstevenssafaris.com for more information.
 Safaris in Zimbabwe
Did you know that a safari in Zimbabwe costs around 1/3 less than a safari in any of the top safari destinations in Africa. Game areas and viewing are on a par with anywhere on the African continent.
We recommend a safari combining three of the country’s top game parks - Hwange, Matusadona and Mana Pools culminating with one night in Victoria Falls. Superb game viewing on foot, - for which the country is famous, as well as by vehicle, canoe and boat (horse back and elephants safaris are also available upon request)
For more information and cost please go to Zimbabwe Suggested Itinerary 13 Days
 Security in Zimbabwe
It is entirely understandable that prospective clients may have concerns regards security in Zimbabwe. The reality is that the country has been calm and peaceful for a number of years. We state clearly and straight away that we would never jeopardize the safety of our clients, a point which we uphold strongly in our reputation. By coming to Zimbabwe, with the dubious record of the highest inflation in the world, you support the people at a grass roots level at a time when they need it most, as they struggle in a most dire economic climate. Another point to consider is the environmental one; the decline in tourism has in turn meant a severe decline in National Park revenue (park entry fees etc) which is resulting in difficulties protecting (anti poaching) and maintaining their areas. Last but not least you are guaranteed a thoroughly warm welcome from every single Zimbabwean.
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