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Gabon for the Adventurer
“If you are into indulging a passive, arm-chair sort of curiosity, do not go to Gabon! Instead, read the brochures and choose a tour that keeps you comfortable and from getting too close to the edge … too close to the edge of survival, too close to the edge of greed, too close to the edge of innocence, too close to the edge of life itself.
Life in Gabon encompasses a sense of “being” that is inhaled along with the humidity, the heat and the frequent salt-seeking insects. At first, time weighs heavily on your hands … but slowly it enfolds you in an all-pervasive, organic sense of its presence and sweeps you amidst forests full of watching, sentient species; through villages full of watchful eyes and whispered stories; along rivers and roadways full of dust, mud and the tale of passages; and through the unknowing ages of our species’ presence in this ancient forest.
Gabon gives you pause … it is not spoiled by too many expectations, by too many yearnings for things to be too much more than they are. It will not always be thus. But it is right now, and it’s worth taking the moment to explore its land, its people … and, ultimately, yourself.”
Becca Hanson
Traveller & Adventurer
Gabon November 2005
(with Nicci Stevens and friends)
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Forest elephants and buffalo on the beach, tracking mandrills, the call of the Great Blue Turaco in the forest canopy, a deafening cacophony of cicadas, flocks of Rosy Bee Eaters, the screech of a chimpanzee echoing through the forest, swarms of butterflies and bees, humidity, stale bread for breakfast, French cuisine for lunch, the frustration of communicating with the only help being a pocket French dictionary, the excitement of a tropical storm, moving around in trains, land rovers and planes – there was so much to this expedition which kept senses heightened at every turn.
At the end of October 2005 Nicci Stevens traveled to Gabon to meet 5 strangers and 2 old safari friends and together began a most memorable expedition through just a small part of this most exceptional country.
For 15 days they traveled by local train (once at 3 in the morning), squashed into the back of land cruisers, and even on one leg in a 2 pilot private charter – transport modes vary and standards are generally haphazard to say the least! From the capital Libreville (serviced almost daily by Air France and Royal Air Moroc) they traveled to Lope, Ivindo (Langoue Bai) and Loango National Parks – time restrictions only allowed 3 of the 13 parks so-designated by President Bongo following Mike Fays’ famous mega transect across the country in 2001 to be visited. But this was enough for a first visit. Favourite stop was Langoue Bai. A hard walk from the end of the road into camp heightens the remoteness of this magical spot hidden in the middle of the forest – a 1 km x 500 metre clearing through which runs a mineral rich creek attracting forest buffalo, elephant, sitatunga, gorillas, butterflies and birds. A hide tucked into the edge of the forest guarding this lush feeding ground is where one waits full of expectation as to what will next appear out of the forest.
Since Nicci’s visit in 2005 Guided Safaris Africa have sent a number of people to Gabon and it continues to be a most popular web enquiry. Another itinerary stop, Evaro in the Noyen Ogooue lake district area not far from Lambarene and the Albert Schweitzer Hospital, has now been added to the recommended itinerary.
Itineraries are custom designed by Guided Safaris Africa. It is not necessary to buy a ‘tour package’ when traveling to Gabon and it is no more expensive to travel independently whether you are couple or a group. A few single people and couples would prefer to have company along the way and so for this reason we continue to take names of anyone who would like to join a group.
Gabon is for the adventurer and the traveller not the tourist. It is probably best to think about spending time in Gabon more along the lines of an exploration or an expedition and not to travel with high expectations based on normal safari experiences. There will be lots to take one out of normal comfort zones including some tough forest walking; haphazard standards of accommodation, food and service and a train service that rarely runs on time! But equally there will be much to experience and learn - beautiful scenes and sounds; interesting people; ancient forests and always the expectation of seeing a completely wild chimpanzee, gorilla or some other wonderful bird or animal in this almost pristine wilderness.
If you want to be part of nature and experience the wild - Gabon will give you that taste of Eden some of us humans seek.
Click here to view a sample Gabon itinerary
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Contact us soon about your 2007 or 2008 Safari
Our lives today usually do not allow us the luxury of making holiday plans too far in advance but with Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana and Zambia now listed as Africa’s top safari destinations we encourage you to contact us as soon as possible if you are planning a 2007 safari.
If you are planning a 2008 safari get in touch with us early in the new year most especially if you are limited to summer school holiday dates.
Safari Trends 2006- 2007
Our most popular safari destination during 2006 has been Zambia. For 2007, based on present bookings, this position will be taken by Kenya. Regardless of the current trend we can custom design a safari for you anywhere in East or Southern Africa, and of course Gabon, using knowledge, experience and contacts gleaned from a life time of working in Africa.
The Guided Safaris Africa Office
John and Nicci’s middle daughter Sarah has now returned to Zimbabwe after a few years overseas and is working in the safari office conveniently situated in John and Nicci’s garden in Harare. John whenever at home gets involved in the initial planning of safaris then hands over to Nicci or Sarah to get the logistics into place.
World Travel Market, London November
In November Nicci travelled to London to attend the World Travel Market. As most of the safari camps and lodges around Africa send representatives this was a great opportunity to catch up with colleagues and suppliers many of whom are old friends. It was also the perfect opportunity to collect updated and new information. Nicci has returned full of ideas and enthusiasm.
Gabon for the Traveller
The possibility of travelling in Gabon continues to raise much interest and is by far our most popular web enquiry. Many of these enquiries do not turn into actual bookings due the relatively high cost of travelling in Gabon – approx €350 per person per night over a two week trip. The Guided Safaris office only puts together custom designed trips, which, based on personal experience work very well. These individually planned trips cost the same whether you are a couple or a group and are no more expensive than the widely available ‘package tours’. Nicci is presently working on an idea to have locally based, English speaking guides available to accompany groups as one of the main problems travelling in Gabon is that of communication.
Johns 2006 Safari Highlights
John continues to have wonderful safari experiences with his guests, some of which are now also being caught on his new digital camera.
- having located spoor we began tracking a white rhinoceros, always very exciting. Resting up on high ground, my guest Sue Clark, suddenly spotted the animal coming out of a gulley below us not far from our overnight fly camp. We had a great view of this magnificent animal. The camel train, having finished their day job moving our camp to this new site, could be seen grazing happily amongst the acacias near camp as the safari team prepared for our arrival.
Lewa/Laikipiak Masai Land, Kenya February
- my first sighting of a White-tailed Lark while walking on the plains near Naibor
Masai Mara, Kenya February
- spotlighting one night we found two leopards sprawled across middle canopy limbs of an acacia tree while below four lions prevented them from descending. A distance from this scene, sitting in another acacia a third leopard quietly observed the goings on. We eventually had to leave this unusual scene of two leopards in a rather tight spot.
Lower Zambezi, Zambia August
- a surprise lunch on a barge as we drifted gently down the Zambezi enjoying chilled champagne served by white clad waiters while hippos wallowed alongside and bee-eaters circled overhead – and at the same time hoping, as I enjoyed every minute of this decadence, that my Zimbabwean guiding colleagues didn’t have their binos trained on me from the Zimbabwe side !
Lower Zambezi, Zambia July
- being entertained around the camp fire, most evenings of their safari, by Vittoria Cottafavi and Charlie Kuntz playing the guitar, banjo and singing – great fun with everyone joining in
Zambia, August
- sitting motionless amongst an entanglement of vines on top of a termite mound while mere feet away an elephant matriarch and her off spring hungrily ‘vacuumed’ up the fallen figs from the spreading canopy above. Particularly entrancing was her tiny calf, no more than a few months, testing the use of his still uncontrollable little trunk on a tuft of dry grass, while remaining as close as possible to mum’s side.
Mana Pools Zimbabwe, October
These images and more will be added to my Online Gallery soon!
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